Differences Between Damask, Brocade, and Jacquard

Often times, uneducated individuals use the terms damask, brocade, and Jacquard interchangeably with one another. It can often confuse those who are unfamiliar with the world of fabrics. Jacquard is a decorative or woven pattern that is created by using a Jacquard attachment on a loom. The attachment resembles the punch card on a piano. It is purported to offer better versatility and fabric control for the operator of the loom. The Jacquard technique can be applied to a variety of fabrics, and it is commonly used on brocade and damask fabrics. It is commonly used in a variety of apparel and home goods, from tablecloths to bedding.

Brocade is defined as a lavishly decorated, shuttle woven fabric. It is primarily woven from silk; although, it is possible to find brocade constructed from a blend of silk and synthetic fibers. Often, it will be embroidered with gold or silver thread. Brocade can trace its origins back to India, where weaving is a traditional art form. It is typically woven on a loom, and it may or may not be woven using the Jacquard technique. It is also characterized by the manner in which the brocaded or broached parts of the fabric hang in loose groups or are clipped away. Although the scenes and patterns on brocade appear to have been embroidered, the scenes are actually woven into the fabric using advanced weaving techniques that involve manipulating the weft and weave of the fabric. The most common types of scenes depicted on brocade fabric are those of floral prints.

Damask, similar to brocade, is a fabric that features woven scenes of floral patterns, intricate geometric designs, or simple scenes of domestic life. It may be woven of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers. However, it is most commonly created from silk. It is primarily different from brocade in the fact that its woven fabric pattern is reversible, while that of brocade is not. Similarly, shorter weft patterns in damask allow for more subtle effects in the fabric to be created as it plays off of shadow and light. Damask weaves also contain a higher thread count than that of brocade. Double damask weaves are the highest quality of damask produced; however, it is also the most expensive.

Hiking Boots – Parts And Construction

When shopping for a pair of hiking boots, it is important to know how they are made. No, you do not need to know how to make your own, but you have to understand what goes into them and how it affects the comfort and durability – the overall quality – of the hiking boots. In this article I will describe the parts of a hiking boot, what they are made of, and how they come together to form the ideal hiking boot for you.

Like any shoe, a hiking boot consists of an upper and a sole joined together by a welt and with an inlet at the front covered by a tongue, and the whole is lined with various pads and cushions. I will discuss each of those parts in detail, in terms of what they are made of and what to look for in various types of hiking boots.

Sole and Welt

Let's start at the bottom. The soul of the hiking boot is the sole.

Soles are usually made of synthetic rubber in varying degrees of hardness. A harder sole will last longer, but generally will have poorer Traction on hard surfaces (such as bare rock) and will provide less cushioning. A softer sole gives you the cushioning you need for long hikes and the transaction you need on rough ground, but it will wear out faster.

Manufacturers have made their trade-offs in choosing the materials to make their boots out of. The final choice is up to you when you choose which boot to buy. If you expect to do most of your hiking on soft surfaces, such as desert sand or bare soil, you might lean more towards harder soles. But most of us hike on fairly rugged trails with a good deal of bare rock, and we need the traction of a softer sole.

Inside the sole is a shank. It is a stiffening structure, either fiberglass or steel, that prevails the sole of the boot from twisting and that provides arch support. Shanks may be only three-quarter or half-length. Hiking shoes generally have no shank at all, deriving all their stiffness from the molded rubber sole. Good day-hiking boots may have a full-length fiberglass shank. High-quality backpacking boots will give you the choice of fiberglass or steel. It will depend on how strong you need your hiking boots to be, and how heavy.

Look for deep, knobby tread. Deep cuts in the sole allow water and mud to flow out so you can get traction. "Fake" hiking boots, designed to look like hiking boots but not to perform like them, may have thinner soles and shallow tread. Working boots also may have shallow tread, and they generally have harder soles than hiking boots have.

The welt is the connection between the sole and the upper. Virtually all hiking boots these days are glued together rather than sewn. If you are buying a very expensive pair of backpacking boots, give preference to a sewn welt. Boots with a sewn welt will be easier to resole when the original sole wears out. For hiking shoes or day-hiking boots, when the sole wears out, the upper is not worth salvaging, either, so a glued welt is just fine.

Upper

The upper of the hiking boot brings warmth, protects the sides of your feet from rocks and brush, and repels water. It must also allow your feet to "breathe," so that moisture from perspiration will not build up inside the boots and cause blisters.

Uppers of hiking boots are usually at least partially made of leather. High-quality backpacking boots are often made of full-grain leather (leather that has not been split). Lighter boots may be made of split-grain leather (leather that has been split or sued on one side), or a combination of split-grain leather with various fabrics.

Fabrics that are combined with leather are usually some type of nylon. Heavy nylon wears almost as well as leather, and it is much lighter and cheaper than leather.

In any hiking boot, especially those made of combinations of leather and fabric, there will be seams. Seams are bad. Seams are points of failure. Seams are points of wear, as one panel of the boot rubs against another. Seams are penetrations that are difficult to waterproof.

The uppers of backpacking boots are sometimes made of a single piece of full-grain leather with only one seam at the back. This is good, for all the reasons that seams are bad, but it is expensive.

You're going to have to deal with seams. But as you shop for hiking boots, look for customer reviews that mention failure or undue wearing of the seams, and avoid those brands.

Inlet and Tongue

There are two things to look for in the inlet and the tongue:

1. How the laces are attached and adjusted

2. How the tongue is attached to the sides of the inlet

The inlet may be provided with eyelets, D-rings, hooks, and webbing, alone or in combination. They each have these advantages and disadvantages:

* Eyelets: Simplest and most durable way to lace a boot. Not so easily adjusted.

* D-rings: Easier to adjust than eyelets, more durable than hooks. More failure-prone than eyelets. (They can break, and they can tear out of the leather.)

* Hooks: Easiest to adjust of all lace attachments. Subject to getting hooked on brush, or bent or broken in impacts with boulders, main cause of breakage of laces.

* Webbing: Cause less chafing of laces, slightly easier to adjust than eyelets, slightly more durable than D-rings. More failure-prone than eyelets.

The most common lace attachment of any hiking boot is eyelets below ankle-level and hooks above. You may see eyelets all the way up, as in classic military-style combat boots, or a combination of either D-rings or webbing with hooks.

The attachment of the tongue is a critical factor in how waterproof the hiking boots are. Provided the leather and / or fabric and seams of the upper are waterproof, water will not get into the boots until it gets higher than the attachment point of the tongue.

Most hiking shoes and day-hiking boots have the tongue attached all the way to the top. If the tongue is not fully attached, consider carefully wherever you will need that extra inch or two of waterproofing.

High-rise backpacking boots have the tongue attached only partway up, but that still reaches higher than most day-hiking boots. It's difficult to get the boot on and off if the tongue is attached very high.

Linings and Pads

There are many pieces that go into the lining and padding of a hiking boot, but two in particular you need to pay attention to:

1. The sole lining

2. The scree collar

The sole lining must be appropriately cushioned. You want a firm, durable surface in immediate contact with your socks, but enough cushioning below that to absorb impact.

The scree collar is a cushion around the top of most hiking boots. It enables you to pull the boots tight enough to keep out loose rocks ("scree") but without chafing against your ankle and Achilles tendon. This is the thickest and softest cushion in the whole hiking boot. It must be soft enough to conform to your ankle and Achilles tendon as they move, and still keep close enough contact with your leg to keep the rocks out.

Very high hiking boots, such as military-style combat boots, may have no scree collar at all. The height of the boot is what keeps the rocks out.

Throughout, the lining and padding of the hiking boots must be thick enough to provide warm, durable enough to last, and smooth enough that it will not cause chafing and blisters.

Conclusion

So, these are the things you need to pay attention to when going a pair of hiking boots. Be prepared to compromise, and pay attention to which features are really important to the style of hiking you intend to do.

Superdry Clothing – Sizes Explained

The problem is that Superdry sizes 'appear to be different' from other brands in the market (I've put that in inverted commas for a reason). That and the internet is plagued of misleading information on this topic. I've decided to sort this out once and for all. Or at least until Superdry change things up again. Superdry is actually very accurately sized. I know you were not expecting to hear that so I will explain why.

The Problem with Standards
There is an international standard for clothing sizes. The International Standards Organization, also known as ISO. They are the governing body for all sorts of standards, including a standard measure for the sizing of clothes. This should, in theory, give us a reference to be able to accurately choose clothes and convert between US, UK, European and other sizes. But it does not. There are problems with the international standards.

Getting too deep into these standards is beyond the scope of this article so I'm going to cut to the chase. There problem comes in two parts; Using letter codes like Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large and clothing manufacturers taking liberties with the established standards. They are not obliged to conform to the standard so there is not likely to be any change in the future. When compared to other clothing brands, a good rule of thumb is that Superdry clothing is approximately one size smaller. They are sized to fit properly but as most other clothing manufacturers are getting more and more generous with their sizing, it's better to go for one size bigger in Superdry clothes. For example, if you are usually a medium then you buy a large in Superdry.

Superdry Size Chart
Superdry clothing complies with the international standards; the problem is that other clothing companies do not. Superdry also use letter codes, so there must be a look up table to convert a size from Small, to chest size or women's dress size. If you've looked at their website you would have noticed that there is not such a helpful table anywhere to be found. I've developed a Superdry size chart.

Men's Superdry Clothing Size Chart

Sizes are chest sizes, measured in inches.

Extra Small = 36 "
Small = 38 "
Medium = 40 "
Large = 42 "
Extra Large = 44 "
Extra Extra Large = 46 "

Men's waist sizes are pretty straight forward. They are all in inches, the standard measure so you should not have any problems selecting your size.

Women's Superdry Size Chart
The UK and US dress sizes are matched to the ISO standards and may not necessarily match up to the size you would normally buy in other clothing brands. It is intended that you go by the actual measurements (in inches).

Extra Small = UK Size 8 / US Size 4 = Bust 34 ", Waist 25.5", Hip 36.5 "
Small = UK Size 10 / US Size 6 = Bust 34 ", Waist 26.5", Hip 37.5 "
Medium = UK Size 12 / US Size 8 = Bust 35 ", Waist 27.5", Hip 38.5 "
Large = UK Size 14 / US Size 10 = Bust 36 ", Waist 28.5", Hip 39.5 "

Buying Superdry Clothing
Probably the best advice I can give you is try before you buy but what if you do not have a store near you? Is this case you are left with the only option, to shop online where you can not try the item on before you buy it. There are exceptions however. Some stores, like Nucleus, offer free return postage on internet orders so in effect you can try the stuff on and send it back if it does not fit. It's a slight hassle getting to the post office but at least it will not cost you anything.

10 Signs That He Likes You

You met this great guy and you've been dating each other for some time. Not in an exclusive relationship, but you have been spending time together. Phone calls that rented for more than an hour, flirty smiles are replaced.

You feel good about him.

Now is the million dollar question that you want to find out.

Does he like you? Is he into you, or not?

How to know the answer? What are the tell-tale signs that he is into you?

Well, besides using your woman's intuition which is not something I can describe here nor teach, I'll do my best to "simplify" this complicated thing call "love".

10 Signs That He Likes You

1. Watching the same movie twice

He's seen the movie. Although he was not very impressed with it, but because you have not caught it he suddenly changed his tune and he really would like to watch it a second time.

And so by the way, if you have not seen it too, why not let's go catch it together, he asked.

You know his intention is then not on the movie, but the company really.

So girls, do not expose his true intentions. It's enough to know the underlying truth, be appreciative ok?

2. His car is playing songs that just sound too, familiar?

Because those are your favorites! You have merely casually mentioned to him once, and the next time he drives you, you're in for a musical beast.

Is he always so attentive to everyone's needs and preferences? Well, you observe how he interacts with others and you tell me.

3. He asks that question!

Well, he will try to be as casual and nonchalant about it as possible. But no matter how cool he acts, deep down inside he is burning and dying to know the answer to this question:

"So, are you single?"

If your answer is yes, then this will be the next one:

"No way. How can someone like you be single?

Now watch his body language closely. If you notice he is feeling tensed up by now, and completely relieved when your answer is "No" then you get the message.

4. He requests for a follow-up date even before the date is over

Now if he is not interested in you, why would a man be so anxious to "book" your time for another date with him even when the date is only half-way through?

Without you look like Jessica Alba, or you can give him a million-dollar job like Donald Trump. If you are not either one of the two or belong to either one of the category, then this can be a clue to his heart …

5. Your name is not foreign to his friends

If you do get a chance to meet up with his friends, which you know you can create such opportunities, you'll get some nice juicy bits from them.

But this may not be very fool-proof, neither are all of these signs, but if his friends raise their eyesbrows or grin sheepishly when he introduces you to them, then that means word has been around within that gang on someone in particular, which could very well be you.

6. He can not remove his eyes from you

Ok, we know that's not the kind of stare-through-your-clothes type, but rather a slightly more loving kind of gaze that speaks of admiration and liking.

If the eyes could speak, they may just pop this question on behalf of their owner "You are the most beautiful lady I've ever seen. Would you like to be more than friends?"

The best test? When a bombshell or super gorgeous babe sashays past, you need to alert him before he notices her. (Of course, this is really carrying it a little far ha ha …. what does it take to stop a man's roving eyes? I can not find the answer yet)

7. He prompts you

Every now and then, he will find a chance to ask you what type of guy you are attracted to and are looking for in a partner.

Without he's doing what I'm doing (which puts me in a really privileged position to ask ha ha), what business is it for him to know what kind of man you like if not for the fact that he is secretly ploting his way to become the most feasible candidate?

Do not be surprised if he starts putting him down or discrediting himself by saying things about him that do not fit into the list you described. He is testing waters to see what your reaction would be, which will give him some clues on how you feel for him.

For example you listed "having a good sense of humor and making you laugh" as one of the exercises which you will be attracted to, and he says "Oh, I'm a boring guy actually. jokes or make girls laugh. I must be boring you then "be careful of what you reply him.

If you say "Ya, I do not think you are the type of humorous person either" versus "Oh is that so? But I never find you boring at all. he will either be secretly weeping in sorrow or jumping in joy.

By saying things like that, he is kind of "forcing" you to give a response, and either way you will be giving away clues on how you feel. So girls, if you fancy this guy too, you know what kind of answer you should give, right?

8. He is doing you favors

Yes, he does not mind ferrying you around if he has a car. He will also volunteer to accompany you all the way to an out-of-the-way place to satisfy a sudden craving you have for a food delicacy that is sold there.

He wiil help you with your school work, express his interest in lending you a hand for errands you need to run, buy some things for your family etc.

If a man is not interested in developing something further than friendship with you, unless he is too bored with his life or he's Mr Super Ultra Nice, then I wonder what can be that wherever you need his help.

9. He's very anxious about celebrating special occasions.

Like Valentine's Day (if he asks you out on that day, I would really suspect his intention, would not you?) And your birthday.

He would long to celebrate this special day with you, and preferably alone.

10. He buys you gifts

Sending gifts on no occasion occasion and for no reason is the easiest way for a man to declare his interest in a girl without verbalizing it. By giving you something, he is testing to see how you react. Usually he will do this when he still is not sure of how you feel towards him, so at least he will not feel rejected if you reject his gift.

At the same time, he is hiring to make you happy with that gift. And if you are happy, he will be too!

Summarizing the above, they may not be 100% fool-proof scientifically demonstrated to show he's into you. They came from pure experience and observation. I purposely did not include things like body language where he will check how he look before meeting you, pointing his leg and facing his body towards you etc because I just want to make this as non-scientific as possible.

So ladies, hope this gives you some clues to how this man who is appearing in front of you pretty often clearly notices about you. Does he have only platonic friendship in mind, or something more?